Power Tool Parts and Repair Diagnostics

To better understand how to diagnose your power tools, it is important to first know how they work. Although your tools and motors can be intensely complex machines, becoming familiar with the basic functions and motor parts of your tools is not only important, but also surprisingly simple.
For starters, the power inlet and outlet of your power tools works much like the water in your sprinkler system; water flows down a predetermined path and is expelled from an opposite end to “act” on your lawn or garden. If such water doesn’t sparkle from your sprinklers onto the ground, you can be sure that a problem has occurred somewhere along its path of motion. In theory, problems in your power tools happen and can be diagnosed in exactly the same way. Electricity follows a different path in your power tools; it enters from a power source and travels along an electrical path of cables and connectors to the tool’s motor, where it is converted into actual physical energy. Then that energy is expelled at the opposite end of the tool in the form of a rotating chuck or saw blade.
The electrical path begins, of course, with a power source such as a battery or power cord. Once this source is activated, electrical energy travels through the power cord best snow blower for gravel driveway to the tool’s switch or trigger, which will make or break the electrical flow that powers the tool. After passing through the switch, the electrical path (in a nutshell) passes through the carbon brushes of the tools, onto the armature (more specifically, its commutator bars), and lastly, the energy moves onto the field where it finally becomes real physical force. . To diagnose a problem with your power tool, simply start at the power source and follow the electrical path.
Fortunately, because early components along the electrical path are more likely to experience wear from power surges or excess heat, problems that occur early on the electrical path are much more common than those that do occur. deeper into the tool. Also, your field and armor are made with a lot more enthusiasm than your standard brushes and switches, but I digress. To get to work more properly, I’ll start at the beginning and talk a bit about power cables.
It is usually pretty obvious if you have cable damage. This will cause overheating, a general loss of power, and lift the head with visible wear, such as cracks or breaks. If the cord is damaged, it acts like a minor / major kink in a garden hose or an obstruction in a water pipe and the cord is unable to supply adequate electrical flow to the tool motor. This means that the tool will have to work much harder to function, which, in turn, will cause the motor to heat up, eventually causing damage to the interior components of the tool. Since worn or broken power cords are also an electrical hazard, they should always be replaced. Note: The same “kink” or “clogging” phenomenon will also occur when using an extension cord that is too long. Because electrical power is depleted as you go along its path, extension cords that are too long will deliver less power and overheat the tool. Always use the shortest extension cord possible.
After checking the cable, move on to the switch. Here, heat damage is pretty simple to detect – the wiring will melt or discolor or the actual plastic on the switch body will appear burned or melted. If the power switch has a short circuit or fails, the electrical path will stop there and the tool will not activate. Telltale symptoms of a faulty switch usually come in the form of problem starts, overheating, and a noticeable drop in the overall performance and power of your power tools. If the switch is wired properly and you can’t see any visible damage, move on to the tool brushes.
Brush damage can cause difficult starts, on / off action during use, general lack of power, excess heat, or some bad odors or sparks. Also, a faulty brush can sometimes prevent your power tools from starting completely. With your brushes, damage usually occurs in one (or more) of the following ways: heavy wear, chipping or crumbling, burrs, or heat damage. It’s hard to say which is the most common, but I bet it’s wear and tear; Some brushes have wear lines to indicate when they need to be replaced, however it is a good rule of thumb that when the carbon block on the brushes wears down to a quarter inch thick, it should be replaced.
Chipping occurs when the charcoal becomes abnormally damaged or begins to crumble inside the tool. As the name implies, a chipped brush will be missing a piece of the charcoal. Burrs, on the other hand, are terrible little creatures that can form around your brushes blocking or preventing the connection between the brush and the commutator. These can usually be scraped off, but it’s still important to make sure your brushes are in good condition; As long as you’ve broken the motor, you can consider replacing the burr brushes anyway. Also check the elasticity of your brushes.